Monday, January 30, 2012

Our Perugia Travel Group

I absolutely love this picture taken by Samantha Weiss!  Our little travel group overlooking beautiful Perugia:  Sam, Alex, Mickey, Me, Anna, Ellen, Joe, Mariana.

(Credit:  Samantha Weiss)

Sunday, January 29, 2012

Perugia: Quaint, Unique, Beautiful

Before I begin, I would like to thank someone.  I don't know her name, I just remember who she was.  Back in Madison, as a student assistant, she was in a class I worked in.  I told her about my trip to Italy and she said that I absolutely must go to Perugia because it is one of the most beautiful towns in Italy.  That word of mouth was all that motivated me...


...and she was absolutely right!  So, thank you.

We planned it as a day trip.  Our train left the Termini station in Rome at 7:43.

After waking up at 5:30 and skyping with an all too exuberant Laura Stingl preparing for an evening out in Madison, we began the 30 minute walk/subway trip to Termini.  We made it with 5 mins to spare.


The train ride lasted two-and-a-half hours.  Most of us slept.  A little scare occurred when we found out that we were supposed to stamp our tickets.  Thankfully, the ticket inspector didn't seem to want to deal with it.

When we got there, things were already different... no English.  I liked it that way.  Our adventure was starting to become a little more challenging.  After deciding on the right bus to take into town, we headed up fifteen minutes to Piazza Italia.

And I mean UP.  It's a miracle how everyone drives stick shift here.  The views from the bus ride alone were spectacular.

We arrived in Piazza Italia, the center of Perugia.


Let me explain briefly that neither pictures nor words will ever come close to capturing the atmosphere and beauty of Perugia.  I can honestly say that and I'm sorry.

Foolishly though, I will try.

Two weeks ago, when I arrived in Rome, everything was different:  the language, the food, the people, the buildings, the streets, the shops, the toilets, the smell, the sounds... everything.  It was a truly unique and exhilarating experience.

When I arrived in Piazza Italia, Perugia, I felt as though it were happening all over again.


If one were to put Perugia and Rome side-by-side, we wouldn't believe that they were even remotely related.

The buildings seem to belong to a different era, the people appear younger, punkier, and less stressed.  The side-streets are covered by beautiful, brick buttresses.


The air was dry and cool, the sun was strong but the sky was hazy.  The whole town seemed smaller, cozier.

Obviously, the first thing we all needed was caffe.  And, a bathroom.  We got both at this little bar.


The caffe was delicious.


Surprisingly, the bathroom turned out to be its own little cultural adventure.


After many attempted translations from our Italian experts, Ellen and myself, we concluded that you pull the sting to flush.

Opposite Piazza Italia is Piazza IV Novembre.  This is home to the Fontana Maggiore and the Duomo.  The Duomo is a beautiful Gothic church.


I didn't even bother taking pictures on the inside because no picture will ever do it justice.  The frescoes on the high vaulted ceilings were gorgeous.  One in particular made the illusion that angles were hovering just below the ceiling.  The monolithic granite columns were each of a different pattern and each 4 stories tall.

This ancient and mid-eval technique was used to symbolize power and control.  Essentially they must be getting the different granite from different places all over the world and the only way to do that is by controlling those places.  The church was breathtaking.

As we left, we saw some kids playing with the pigeons.  Cute.


We also saw the priest's car (no proof).  Nice.


The next stop was an ancient Etruscan well, dating back before the Roman Empire.  The entrance fee was 3 euro, but we talked her down to 2 euro because we were all art students.  Better yet, the ticket allowed us in to two other sites.  This one alone was worth 3 euro.

(Credit:  Ellen Faletti)

We wondered the streets with no sense of direction.  One of the best things to do in Italy is to get lost.  We came across multiple little viewpoints over the town.


The buildings hug the hill so perfectly and the roads and sidewalks wind through them.  In the distance you can see the hazy, layered mountainous terrain that creates the spine of central Italy.

We continued walking north following an early Etruscan wall and arriving at the Etruscan Arch.


It's actually Roman influenced.  You can tell because it's a true masons arch, a technique invented by Roman engineers: dry laid stone wedges with a keystone.  It also has Augustus's inscription across the top.

We followed a later city wall to the far north end of the town.  On our way, Anna and Ellen spotted a swing set.  For some reason, the beauty of a swing set contrasted with an ancient wall appealed to me.


Finally, we came to a beautiful domed church, the Chiesa di Sant'Angelo.  It was also siesta time, which Italians here took very seriously.  So, it was very quiet and very peaceful.



It was siesta time, so everything was closed until 3pm.  We relaxed in the small field outside the church until everything opened up again.  That's when we visited this nearby tower.  Originally built for defense, it is now used as a viewpoint over the city.  The view was incredible.


We started our walk back.  The latest train back to Rome left at 8:50.  Although, I guess I wouldn't mind being left in Perugia.

It turns out that Perugia is known for their chocolate.  Furthermore, Italy is known for their gelato.  So, what's better to get than chocolate flavored gelato from the best chocolate shop in Perugia?  We asked for directions, essentially "Dove chocolate?"  Chocolate is the one internationally understood word.  Italians love giving directions with their hands and we found the place with no problems.  I ate mine too quickly, but Mickey let me take a picture of hers.


This was the best gelato I've had in Italy and also the cheapest.  How does that work?

There was one last stop before dinner that Anna had wanted to make.  It's called the lower city.  Perugia is located on top of a high hill.  Beneath the town is a lower city.  Literally a living town, completely underground.  There was an escalator to take you down.


Once down, you found yourself in a labyrinth of brick tunnels and cast iron gates.  Beautiful cast iron lamps lined the ceiling.  It was almost eerie.  There were a few shops, a museum and people enjoying the dungeonesque atmosphere.


An otherwise perfect day, there was but one little downside to the trip.  No restaurant in Perugia opens for dinner before 7pm.  This was a problem because no dinner in Italy takes under 2 hours.  It doesn't take a math major to see that we would be stuck in Perugia (again, doesn't sound too awful).  Luckily, the Irish pub was open.  I was tempted to have a burger but instead had wine and pasta.  Joe went for a nice Belgium beer.


So, we were unable to get authentic Perugian food.  But, I know I will be returning to this town in the future.  Next time, we decided on the train ride back home to Rome.

Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Proudest Moment in Rome: Taking out the Trash

Not as easy as it sounds really.  After all of the orientation I went through, you would think they would mention exactly how to take care of recycling and garbage in the apartments.  Instead, they just mention that it's about a 500 euro fine if you screw it up.

Italians are huge about their recycling.

The directions were posted in our apartment.  Unfortunately, they were in Italian.  Even after a good ol' google translate, they were still pretty confusing.  Something about meeting at marked collection plants between the one hour time slots provided for each apartment between the hours of 7:30 and 10:30.


It was rough.  Time was running out.  Sooner or later, the big pile of trash growing and festering in the corner would come to life and start eating people.

But, like smart college students, Adam and I sat down, opened a couple beers and figured it out!  Just find one of these garbage trucks parked in specific locations at certain times and drop off the properly sorted recyclables or disposables in the appropriately colored bags.

(Credit:  Flickr)

Say buongiorno to the lady in the funny looking, bright-orange jumpsuit smoking a cigarette and you're off to enjoy a coffee.

(Credit:  Flickr)

That wasn't too bad.

Sunday, January 22, 2012

Not All Fun and Games: Getting Gyped and Clubbin'

Yesterday was interesting.  I started the day off by heading over to the Spanish Steps and the Piazza di Spagna. I took a whole batch of pictures on my way.  Here's my favorite.


Everything about it is strange.  First, and most obviously, the guy photo bombed with out me noticing... congrats to him.  Secondly, the girl just looks adorably embarrassed.  And finally, the drawing has the girl and guy on opposite sides.  Many artists do street portraits here to make money and I just wanted to photograph the phenomenon.  This is what I end up with.

It's exceedingly difficult to capture people candidly.

While atop the Spanish Steps, the view was spectacular.  I felt like I could see all over Rome.  The Sistine Chapel rose up brilliantly in a haze, far off in the distance.  It was striking.  Unfortunately, it is very difficult to capture the experience with a camera.  Of course, I tried.


Also atop the Spanish Steps, I got Gyped... literally.  He was slick.  He started talking to me, asking me where I was from.  I thought, Italians are friendly!  Then he says, "show me your hand real quick."  In hind-sight, obviously I shouldn't have.  He tied a string around my finger and quickly began making a bracelet.  I knew right away.


Actually, he was quite talented.  He finished up and his buddy asked for 10 euro.  I laughed and said 2 euro at the most.  Then he said ten-five, which either meant 15 euro and that he didn't understand bargaining or that he would drop it to 5 euro.  I said no way, 2 euro.  He said ten-five again.  So, I gave him a 2 euro, he took our picture, and I left.


I thought I was the smart American.

I was upset at first, but I thought I might as well just let it happen and enjoy it.  I think the sad part is that this guy is talented, nice, and speaks English well, but is stuck scamming stupid tourists.  It says something about the employment situation in Roma, which is bleak.

Later that evening, after Skyping with my Mom and Dad (adults using Skype below... hilarious), I met some friends and had some coffee right across the street at Tazza d'oro.  According to Rick Steves, this is the best coffee in Rome and I've been going there just about every day.  It's pretty delicious.



Then, we went to the store and bought some bread and Peroni with the sole intention of consuming our purchase in the Piazza Rotunda outside the Pantheon.  We sat down and we reached a consensus that never in a million years did we think we'd be doing anything like this.  Ancient Roman monument, modern beer, bread, friends, and fun.  Something special.

(Credit:  Samantha Weiss)

I cooked some dinner and got ready to go clubbing.  (Parents look away)

Picked up a couple bottles of wine on the way over to our friends.  We took the tram, Rome's favorite public transportation... which nobody pays for (more on that later).

The clubs we went to were in a district called Testaccio, south-east of the river.  The way the clubs are set-up is the coolest part.  The clubs encircle the base of a small hill.  They are man-made caves with run-down brick and stone facades and terraces with neon lights.  They are lined up, one after another.  Only clubs.  Nothing else.  Each club is bumpin' there own house DJ music.

(Credit:  Google Maps)

There is parking all around with drunken, Italian teenagers and young adults everywhere.  Food stands selling pastries line the streets (not really my idea of drunk food).  The atmosphere was exhilarating.  

As Americans, we couldn't get anywhere without having to pay a cover charge of 10 to 20 euro.  So, we didn't really 'go' clubbin' last night.  We did find an American club which didn't charge a cover and we spent the night there.

We left around 3:00am and things felt like they were just getting started around us.  On our way, I had a cigarette butt thrown at me from the back seat of a car (it bounced off my hair and I was fine).  Maybe it's because I'm American, maybe it's because I'm blonde, or maybe it's because they were just hammered.  In any case, I came to realize that as a middle-class, white American, I had never experienced anything remotely close to hate before.  It made me understand and empathize, ever so slightly, with those who have struggled through hate.  And, I must emphasize, ever so slightly.

Basically, it's not a good feeling to be different and have shit thrown at you.  Something for everyone to remember.

I trekked the rest of the 45 minute walk home and fell right to sleep.

Friday, January 20, 2012

A Day by the Pantheon

The first week of classes is over.  My classes look like they are going to all be very interesting.

Yesterday, I spent the day hanging around the Pantheon.  I walk by it everyday to get to class.  This is easily my favorite Roman monument and it has an extensive, extraordinary history.


It is interesting how the city has built itself around the Pantheon.  It is surrounded by cobblestone streets and tall Roman apartments, shops and restaurants.  It freakishly blends in to its surroundings.  I have to remind myself everyday that I am walking by an 1800 year old monument.


The piazza is populated by a fine mix of Italians and tourists from everywhere.  Many couples get a bottle of wine to share on the steps of the fountain.  Groups of Italian teenagers walk-by puffing their cigarettes and socializing.  The Roma (commonly known as Gypsies) try selling you flashing light gadgets and roses for your date.  Street entertainers provide an aura of music and activity.  It is a very great experience.


Directly in the center of piazza is a fountain which does a wonderful job in symbolizing the evolutionary history of the Pantheon.  The water feature itself is most recent and was introduced in the 16th century.


Atop the fountain is an Egyptian obelisk which was taken from Egypt by the Roman Imperial Army and erected in the piazza at the construction of the Pantheon in the 2nd century AD.  After the Pagan religion was eradicated, Christianity took precedence.  So, a bronze cross was placed at the top of the obelisk. (Can't quite see the obelisk or the cross, sorry)


This history mirrors the history of the Pantheon.  Originally constructed as a temple to all the Roman gods, it became a church in the 7th century.  In becoming a church, all statues of Roman gods were replaced, but the building itself was preserved.

All this history worked up my appetite so I went to a gellato shop nearby.  This is the largest gellato shop I have seen so far, and I can't imagine they get much bigger than this.


I had craeme di Baileys.  Yummy!  Breakfast time.

Monday, January 16, 2012

Roma, You Left The Water On! (The Nasoni)

I think one of the most interesting and unique parts of Rome, that I have encountered so far, are these little guys.


There are literally thousands of them scattered across Roma.  They are called "nasoni," which comes from the Italian word nasone, or big nose.  They are running 24/7 and supposedly provide the best drinking water in all of Italia.  High in calcium, ice cold, delicious.

They have been around since 1874 and most are hand-carved in stone.  It looks as though you would have to bend over and drink it, like some sort of confused gorilla (or American).  Actually, you put your palm on the spout and then water is forced out of a small, upward-facing hole, thus providing the perfect, chest-height arc for drinking.


Quite handy... get it?

Saturday, January 14, 2012

More Photos

Take a look here

Andy Steves and My Albanian Friend Sandro

Ciao amici miei!

These last few days have been filled with orientation.  Rome is a very confusing city with many narrow, curvy streets flanked with tall buildings.  So, I guess it is necessary.

Most of the orientation is boring, touristy and fast.

At our free orientation meals, Rick Steves' son, Andy Steves has been advertising his 'special' travel packages.  It seems like a rip-off, but Andy himself is really knowledgeable and very cool.  He held a free walking tour with an optional dinner and I attended with some of my new acquaintances (below: Joe, Ellen, Sam).


This was the best orientation so far!  We walked from Trastevere, across the Ponte Sisto (below), through Campo dè Flori, to the Piazza Navona and finally to the Pantheon.  He briefly and casually stated a few fun facts and got on with it.


The dinner occurred just outside the Pantheon, and Andy called ahead and rented out the whole place.  For 15 euro, we had all you could drink wine, bruscetta, pasta and pizza.  It was a party.  At the end, the bartenders opened what they called "sexy wine" which was sparkling red wine with strawberry flavor.  Italians really like to entertain and have a good time.

The wine may have caused me to leave my scarf.  However, this may have been the best thing to happen that night.  The next morning I stopped in and asked if they had seen it (in the best Italian I could), they said they had not.  Before I even turned towards the door, the bartender had a glass of "sexy wine" already poured for me.  Yes, it was 9:30 am.  You can't say no.  Plus, it helped the hangover.  We talked.  I asked his name and where he was from (again in the best Italian I could).  He is Sandro from Albania.  He wanted to pour me another, but I said I still had to shower and get to my RA meeting.

Later that day, as I was walking by the pantheon (below) and his restaurant, he was smoking a cigarette and saw me and called my name.  Sure enough, he had found my scarf!  I said grazie.


People here are surprisingly nice and they love when you try to speak Italian, even if you butcher it.

Thursday, January 12, 2012

Link to Album

First day photos!

Here

Please, do not poop in the bidet.

Best advice so far!

The trip started back home in Sussex, Wisconsin.  I had been alternating between periods of nervousness and excitement.

By the time I got to O'hare, I just wanted to be in Rome.  I wanted to know what it was like so I could quit imagining it in my head.

The plane ride to Zurich was dull.  I sat in the back and read half of The Andromeda Strain and slept for maybe an hour.

The plane ride from Zurich to Rome was amazing!  There was a thick fog that we flew up and out of, but the fog flooded the valleys of the alps and the view from the plane was spectacular.


We arrived in Rome pretty quickly and the fog was gone.

I met some dudes and we went to the hotel, checked in, and shuttled out to our apartments.  I was with my roommate Joe, and we were the last dropped off.  Driving in Rome is very unique.  Very few streets are pedestrian only, even when it looks that way.  Drivers do not pay attention to any rules or signs.  Roads are narrow.  Cars are parked all over the place and double-parked everywhere.  It's a mess.  Our driver only scratched one parked car and our student ambassador / translator informed us that this happens all the time.

We drove right by the Pantheon and stopped.  Sure enough, our apartment is on the same block as the Pantheon!  That's right!


And this is the view from our window.  Right out onto Via Degli Orfani.


I crashed right after our housing orientation where I really only learned not to poop in the bidet and other don'ts.

Woke up this morning and it was pitch dark.  I thought it was 2am, but it was 7am.  Had a long day of orientation.  In the free-time I bought my first bottle of wine and spoke only Italian to the worker.  Now I need a nap.

I'll be posting a link to a photo album soon!

Ci vediamo!